There are many types of men's coats, from long coats to coats and waxed jackets.
Let's go into the details of each.
The long coat
The long coat is the dressed coat of the winter.
It is the perfect companion to the suit (even if you wear it with a T-shirt).
A classic look: long coat and suit
A classic look: long coat and suit
It is mostly worn for formal events or to go to the office.
But it is also possible to wear a winter coat with a more casual style.
Long coat with casual look
A casual look well presented by Thomas from Monsieur's Blog
The long coat is not only reserved for the "suit and tie with shoes".
The material of the long coat
Long coats are very often made of wool or cashmere.
Note the quality of this cashmere coat (Loro Piana)
Note the quality of this cashmere coat (Loro Piana)
Wool and cashmere are the materials of choice for several reasons:
Wool and cashmere are warm. Even when wet, it is a material that insulates from the cold.
Compared to synthetic materials, wool and cashmere are very breathable.
Wool, in particular, is a resistant material. That's why the military navy and fishermen used it.
Although they are all mostly made of wool or cashmere, there are different types of long coats.
The Chesterfield coat
Born in the 18th century, the Chesterfield is the archetype of the long coat.
A formal coat, it is one of the longest coats. This overcoat stops at the level of the knees.
Chesterfield coat by Yves Saint Laurent
The typical model of the Chesterfield coat interpreted by the brand Yves Saint Laurent
It is recognized by its two flap pockets.
The Covert Coat
Cousin of the Chesterfield, the Covert is an overcoat of rural origin.
It was used in the countryside in England. It can be recognized by what the English call the "poacher's pocket", which is a large inside pocket.
A Covert coat for men
A typical covert coat (Croft & Hall brand)
It is shorter and more practical to wear. It is however less frequent to see it worn in town.
The Paletot coat
The Paletot is a double-breasted coat, which is considered to be a French-style coat.
Its slim fit gives it a very elegant look.
Paletot coat with Prince of Wales pattern at Pitti Uomo 2017
Example of a Paletot coat with Prince of Wales pattern.
It can be recognized thanks to its two upper buttons. These are further away than the other buttons and cannot be used to close the coat. They are there for style.
Typical example of a Paletot coat
Typical example of a Paletot coat
There is no rule in terms of color. But I've read that Paletot coats come in darker colors.
The Macfarlane coat
The Macfarlane (or "Inverness cape" in English) is a loose, sleeveless coat.
The macfarlane, a waterproof coat that would have appeared in the nineteenth century in Scotland
The macfarlane, a waterproof coat that would have appeared in the nineteenth century in Scotland
It is easily recognizable thanks to its pilgrimage (or cape) on the shoulders.
The famous macfarlane coat (or Inverness coat)
The famous macfarlane coat (or Inverness coat)
Arsène Lupin and Sherlock Holmes are sometimes represented wearing a waterproof coat very similar to the macfarlane.
The statue of Sherlock Holmes in macfarlane in Edinburgh
The Sherlock Holmes statue in macfarlane in Edinburgh
Although not widely used today, macfarlane was well appreciated for its rainproof design.
The Polo Coat
The Polo Coat is a double-breasted coat. It also comes from the Anglo-Saxon world.
Popularized in the 1920s by polo players, it has become one of the iconic pieces of the United States.
A great example of Polo coat for men
A great example of a Polo Coat for men
This is a loose, casual coat that is recognizable by its camel color.
Long coats (including a Polo coat) spotted at Pitti Uomo 2017
Long coats inspired by the Polo Coat, spotted at Pitti Uomo 2017
(It was often made from camel hair).
The best brands of long coats for men
Here's a selection of (often British) brands that offer beautiful long coats:
SuitSupply
Eclectic
Grenfell
Nanamica
Croft & Hall
Dubarry
Dunhill
The pea coat
Originally used by sailors, the pea coat is a warm and robust coat.
The pea coat worn by a sailor
The pea coat was originally a sailor's coat
The short cut of the coat allows an ease of movement. It is more practical than a long coat or a down jacket.
While remaining elegant, its cut gives it a more urban and relaxed side.
It goes very well with jeans or chino.
Casual look with a coat and jeans
Casual look with a pea jacket and
The coat can be worn with a shirt as well as a T-shirt.
Men's coat - Coat - Guerric de Ternay
The coat is a good way to give a slightly more formal look to a T-shirt outfit (here, with a grey GoudronBlanc T-shirt)
The double-breasted buttoning, thick wool fabric, and high collar really help protect you from the chilly air of even the coldest winters.
The pea coat's stand-up collar keeps you warm in winter
The high collar of the pea coat keeps you warm in winter (Ralph Lauren)
Choose a simple coat. If there is a detail that counts, it is the buttons. Avoid plastic. Opt for wooden, metal or leather buttons.
It is sometimes possible to find original buttons.
Original button of an American coat
The original button of an American coat with its engraved anchor (1965)
These buttons can be recognized by their four holes and the anchor that is engraved on them.
Tip:
To go further in style, Romain Rousseau of BonneGueule even advises to customize your pea coat:
"That said, don't forget that changing [the buttons on a pea coat] is extremely simple, cheap, and an interesting way to personalize your piece."
Originally, the pea coat is a wool coat. But it's becoming increasingly difficult to find 100% wool peacoat styles.
A mixture of 80% wool with 20% synthetic material such as nylon remains a good solution.
Example of a wool (80%) and polyamide (20%) coat from Salle Privée
Example of a wool (80%) and polyamide (20%) coat from Salle Privée
No need to be picky because a mixture 80/20 is quite comparable. It sometimes makes the material even more resistant. That said, avoid going beyond 20% synthetic.
The typical coat is navy blue. But you can also choose gray or black.
The best coat brands
Here are some good peacoat brands:
Saint James
Private Room
Mr P (by Mr Porter)
Le Glazik
The duffel coat
The duffel coat is a coat made popular by the British Royal Navy.
The reason of its success?
The buttons on the duffel coat were designed to be easy to remove even when wearing gloves.
(Perfect for sailors.)
Note the loose fit of the duffle coat worn by sailors
Note the loose fit of the duffel coat worn by sailors.
The name of this coat is inspired by the town of Duffel in Belgium. That's where "duffel" comes from, a thick, rough wool material used to make these coats.
Vintage advertising for wool duffle coats
The wool duffle coat has a rather large cut
To choose your duffel coat, be picky about the style of the buttons.
Opt for horn or wooden buttons. Also pay attention to the quality of the straps that hold the buttons. This is the most delicate part of the duffel coat. They must be firmly attached.
The buttons of the duffle coat make its specificity (Gloverall)
The buttons of the duffel coat make its specificity (Gloverall)
In most cases, the duffel coat is loose. This is perfect to wear it in winter with several layers and play on the layering.
A duffle coat in camel color
A duffle coat in camel color. Note the loose fit.
The duffel coat is mostly worn in blue or camel. But it is also found in red, black, or gray.
The best brands of duffel coat
Here is a selection of brands of good duffel coats for men:
Montgomery
Gloverall
Mackintosh
Coatmaker
Schneiders
Inverter
The parka
The parka is the coat designed for cold winters.
Originally designed for extreme conditions, the parka is increasingly popular in European capitals such as Paris, London, or Berlin.
The Canada Goose Chateau down jacket worn with a GoudronBlanc T-shirt, a Carhartt chino, and a pair of Keds
The Canada Goose Chateau down jacket worn with a GoudronBlanc T-shirt, a Carhartt chino, and a pair of Keds
It is a technical garment above all. It's very comfortable and warm. But it's not the most stylish choice.
(To be chosen only if you are cold and don't like to wear multiple layers).
Here is an example with a GoudronBlanc T-shirt:
Canada Goose down jacket and black GoudronBlanc V-neck T-shirt
A good parka and a simple T-shirt (GoudronBlanc) is enough to be warm.
For more details on parkas, read our article on the best alternatives to the Canada Goose and our review of the Nobis parka brand.
The down jacket
The down jacket is that coat that makes you feel like the Michelin Man.
Worn incorrectly, a down jacket can make you look like this.
It is difficult to wear a down jacket well. So reserve it for sportswear looks.
If you want to wear it in the city, opt for flashy colors. And build your look around the piece.
Note the contrast between the flashy down jacket and the rest of the outfit.